Todorova writes, "The delta of the Veleka River is one of the most beautiful areas of the Bulgarian part of the Black Sea. It is near the village of Sinemorets, near the southern border, where life still retains some of its calm and closeness to…
After hours on muddy mountain paths in the Kaçkars, we stopped for tea in a deserted valley with seasonal cottages. The owner of the cafe grabbed a large fishing net and I followed him out back to a small cement pool filled with trout. Strangely, he…